On the Grapevine with John Fordham in the Sunday Telegraph

Published Date: Sunday, 9 October 2011

"...Over the years, Tulloch has become somewhat of a verdelho specialist, to the point where it's widely recognised as one of Australia's most consistent producers of the variety..." John Fordham

"Even though semillon and chardonnay are the Hunter Valley's most talked about white varieties, veteran family winemakers Tulloch are adamant verdelho's claims are seriously worthy of acknowledgment as well. Head honcho Jay Tulloch made his first 100 per cent verdelho three decades ago and has steadfastly maintained his passion for the variety ever since. Prior to this, he used his verdelho grapes to blend with semillon and in Tulloch's fortified wines.

Over the years, Tulloch has become somewhat of a verdelho specialist, to the point where it's widely recognised as one of Australia's most consistent producers of the variety, whose origin can be traced back to the island of Madeira in the North Atlantic Ocean. Being such a versatile grape, it now figures in no less than five verdelho wines Jay Tulloch and consultant winemakers Liz Jackson and Damien Stevens craft at the award-winning First Creek winery.

The table wine offerings are 2011 Tulloch Verdelho ($16) and 2011 Tulloch Vineyard Selection Verdelho ($20), made from fruit sourced throughout the valley and, in the case of the latter, from the family's JYT vineyard in the heart of Pokolbin. The former is engagingly presented as an introductory wine in the hope its fresh citrus-melon flavours will encourage ongoing consumer interest. The Vineyard Selection Verdelho is a significant step up in flavour dimension, exhibiting full ripe honeysuckle characters with a long, spicy finish.

Other wines which also feature the verdelho grape are a non-vintage Verscato ($16), a lively fizz with a pinkish tinge, a semi-sweet 2011 Late Picked Verdelho ($20) and famous Crème de Vin ($35), a rich, complex Madeira-style fortified from a solera dating back to 1973. Other whites that Tulloch produces with impressive consistency are 2010 Chardonnay and 2011 Semillon (both $16), while the shiraz-driven 2009 Private Bin Pokolbin Dry Red ($25) and the mighty 2007 Hector Shiraz ($60) have been the foundation stones of the 116-year-old winery's celebrated red wine reputation." John Fordham